Moving away from the tradition of bi-annual seasonal collections, designer Ursula Pelt’s new fashion schedule now revolves around designing a new collection every eight weeks.
Design.nl spoke to UK-based Dutch fashion designer Ursula Pelt about her reasons for this and the latest collection, entitled ‘Fraulein Ula’.
Why move away from the traditional two fashion seasons a year?
I decided to change the way I’ve been producing collections for a number of reasons. Firstly, I want to keep things exciting and fresh for myself and the customer. Producing new collections every eight weeks means I can be spontaneous with my designs and buyers can also be spontaneous with buying mid-season – which could help make their store more exciting and fresh. Producing more collections also fits in with my work pattern; I have never really made a collection with ‘winter’ or ’summer’ in mind, my inspiration comes more frequently and I like to design all year long without just focusing on two main collections a year.
Is a new collection every eight weeks difficult to sustain?
I create new pieces every day. There will be more changes of prints and fabrics within a design, of course, but I get ideas and inspiration from everything around me – especially my travels – so it’s not that hard for me to keep creating. It’s fun. For example, my latest collection ‘Fraulein Ula’ was designed in Berlin.
What currently inspires you?
I get my inspiration from visiting new cities and countries. My mind just starts going wild when I enter a new part of the world – everything is new and different. Usually I can design the main idea and key items for a new collection on the spot. I also play in a band (Party Horse – www.myspace.com/partyhorsemusic) and make stage wear so this often leads me to striking outfits and designs. Previous collections have been designed in Melbourne, Cape Town, Rio, London, L.A, Moscow, and the latest in Berlin.
And the Berlin collection?
As mentioned earlier, my new collection ‘Fraulein Ula’ is inspired by my time in Berlin. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what it was that inspired me, but as in previous collections, it’s more to do with the feel of the city than specific buildings or clubs for example. Berlin seemed to be quite a hard city with many scars and rough edges caused by its turbulent modern history. I thought this was very striking and it probably led me to a collection that is less romantic than ‘Magnitka’ – my previous collection – and more direct and sharp.
As for the prints in ‘Fraulein Ula’ these came later whilst on tour and are not really informed by the city. The combination of the tough and the playful appeals to me and I found that to be present in Berlin. The overall look of ‘Fraulein Ula’ is quite edgy and youthful with mainly black, cream and grey tones.
How will the collections be sold?
My new collection ‘Fraulein Ula’ will be available in selected stores in the UK and in the Netherlands and directly from my website.